On this day before the winter solstice I share a reflection I wrote in 2015 for an ecumenical Blue Christmas service.
Just north of Dublin, Ireland, is a little place called Newgrange. It’s a World Heritage site, and one of the most popular tourist attractions in Ireland, and is about 5,000 years old. Newgrange is what’s known as a passage tomb, and is surrounded by a kerb, a continuous circle of 97 large stones, including the highly decorated entrance stone.
It covers a single tomb consisting of a long passage and a cross shaped chamber. At the top of the entrance is a roof box, through which the rising sun on December 21, the midwinter solstice, shines through a gap in the floor of the roof box and into the tomb chamber.
For 17 minutes, direct sunlight enters the inner tomb chamber. Each year there is a lottery for the very few people who can actually be inside the tomb on sunrise of the winter solstice. The rest of the year, visitors are taken in very carefully in small groups to experience a simulation of what happens at sunrise on December 21.
I visited Newgrange in the summer of 2011. There were so many things about this place that just boggled my mind. It is remarkable to think that people built this with such precision 1,000 years before the Pyramids, and even before the astronomical constructions of the Mayans. Archeologists can trace the stones used in the building to sites many miles from Newgrange, including some from the Wicklow Mountains south of Dublin. The intricate carvings on the entrance stone and on a few of the kerb stones were done with stone implements, as it was before metal tools.
In the years since I visited, the place continues to play in my thoughts, especially at this time of year. I think about the fact that the people of that time knew well the rhythms of the earth. Somehow, they had figured out the precise moment when the days began to lengthen, when the light began to return.
There has been much written recently by theologians and spiritual guides about darkness and light. Many point out that when we focus so much on light, we often miss the gifts of the darkness. The gift of growth, of mystery and the unknown, however scary and uncomfortable they are at the time.
As I continue to think about the people that built Newgrange, I realize that not only did they celebrate the coming of light into the world, but by building this amazing structure, they were ritualizing also the eventual return of darkness, and then light, and then darkness … for 5,000 years it has been happening. The acknowledgment that there is a cycle of light and darkness in the world, and we need both.
A number of years ago Rabbi David Seidenberg, in an article in Tikkun magazine, wrote “Darkness is what gives us the glory of the night sky. Without it, the Milky Way, the shining path that inspired our ancestors to look up and wonder “who created these?” is all but obliterated by the light spilling from our cities and suburbs.” He wrote of the darkness that gives birth to the world “… nurturing us by feeding us darkness, mystery, yearning. This is the darkness in which the seed begins to grow and the baby starts to form …” He says that “… most cultures have light-based rituals in the time of greatest darkness”, and that “Chanukah always includes the new moon that is closest to the solstice, which is in fact the darkest night of the year …”[1]
And we know that at least some of the origins of the celebration of Christmas were in pagan celebrations that celebrated the coming of light into the world. The wisdom in these traditions is as old as humankind.
So when Jesus said “Take my yoke upon you and learn from me, … you will find rest for your souls” … could he be referring to this ancient wisdom? To the knowledge that the light will come … and the darkness will come again too. Perhaps we learn each time we live through the darkness and then experience the coming of light … perhaps each time we are more able to sit in the darkness, waiting for the light that we know will come, trusting in the rhythm of the ages. Can we learn from this wisdom of the ancients … can we learn during the difficult times to lay our burdens down, in prayer, with a trusted friend or companion, just for a while, in the knowledge that the light will come?
Jan Richardson, in her book Night Visions, Searching the Shadows of Advent and Christmas, talks about the concept of thresholds, those in between places when we are making a passage from one place to another. Whether we find ourselves at a threshold by choice or by circumstance, while it might not seem so at first, thresholds “… can become holy places of new beginnings as we tend it, wait within it, and discern the path beyond.”[2]
There are lots of videos online, and tons of information about Newgrange. You can see a great National Geographic youtube video about Newgrange at:
https://youtu.be/P6XAFJ_FdOA?si=84IdoSi5MDBhwUGf
You can find out more about Newgrange, and apparently watch a livestream of the sunrise at Newgrange World Heritage Site : Boyne Valley, Ireland
I am sharing this early enough so if any of you want to get up very early tomorrow morning and watch the livestream … let me know how it goes.
Happy Solstice!
[1] http://www.tikkun.org/nextgen/25884
[2]Jan Richardson, Night Visions, United Church Press, Cleveland, Ohio, 1998; p.111